Mâcon
We take a walking tour around beautiful Mâcon in southern Burgundy, exploring a multitude of churches and other sights, and stopping by the oldest (and lewdest) building in the city.
At daybreak, we found ourselves 40 miles north of Lyon, bobbing peacefully at a dock in Mâcon. Located in southern Burgundy on the banks of the Saône, the town served as a port for the Celts in the 1st century BC, then expanded rapidly under Roman rule.
In the 3rd century, under pressure from rebellions across the region, Roman authorities buried a huge silver hoard in Mâcon that would be discovered in 1764 — jewelry, plates, and figurines, along with 30,000 gold and silver coins. Most of what became known as the Mâcon Treasure disappeared immediately; only eight silver statuettes and a plate remain, now on display at the British Museum. Because, you know, relics from Rome found in France should be in Britain.
We stood alongside the river, shading our eyes from the bright morning sun sparkling on the water. Our tour group gathered for a stroll through the city.
We crossed into the old town center and soon came upon La Maison du Bois, the oldest building in the city, dating to the late 1400s. Its wooden façade is decorated with a menagerie of colorful characters, including masked men, winged creatures, and monkeys with conspicuous erections. The landmark sits above a restaurant today.
Beyond the central shopping streets, we walked uphill past Old St. Vincent Cathedral, now a museum salvaged from ruins of a church constructed between the 11th and 14th centuries.
We stopped at the pleasant Square de la Paix (Peace Square), which pays tribute to Berty Albrecht, heroine of occupied France during World War II and co-founder of the Resistance Combat movement. Albrecht was arrested by the Nazi Gestapo here in May 1943 and took her own life soon after.
The square is flanked by the 18th century Hôtel-Dieu on one side and the 19th century “new” Mâcon Cathedral on the other.
We stepped inside Cathédrale Saint-Vincent de Mâcon to admire its gentle yet grand neoclassical style and gorgeous stained-glass windows.
Our tour continued at a leisurely pace down a few more streets before arriving at Hôtel Senecé, a mansion built at the beginning of the 18th century. Since 1896, it has been home to Académie de Mâcon, a cultural association that hosts working groups discussing literature, archaeology, art, science, history, and — critical to Burgundy — viticulture.
We turned one last corner to be greeted by the massive Saint Pierre Church, in the heart of the old town center, across a plaza from City Hall. The 19th-century Neo-Romanesque church is the largest in the city and features a lofty vaulted ceiling, delicate frescoes, and many attractive chapels.
Marianne and I set out on our own to find a good spot for lunch, snaking through the streets past restaurants I had highlighted before the trip. We weren’t up for traditional Burgundian food and eventually picked Ristorante Pizzeria Le 37, a casual but well-rated place next to the Chamber of Commerce.
Nearby jack-hammering ceased just as we were seated, and the patio soon filled with parties of workers on their lunch breaks. I chose the rigatoni carbonara, while Marianne settled on a mushroom pizza. We sat back and unwound, letting time pass — away from the busy ship, absent of any immediate itinerary.
We returned to the ship for an afternoon sail. I watched the Saône ease by from my bed and reveled in gratitude for the simple joys of the day.
